An urban-luxe collection for Autumn/Winter 18/19. 

 

Known as a ‘Houses of Illusion’, the brothels of 1930s Paris were an elusive and secretive business until unveiled by French photographers Brassai and Henri Cartier-Bresson. Inspired by the women who are personified and given stature by the camera in this photographic series, the collection plays with modern perceptions of females and the distortion of modesty. Following his exploration of the secret nightlife of Paris, Brassai began engraving and drawing over the nude female form, changing the way it is considered. The concept explores the juxtaposition of oversized silhouettes against revealing, feminine shapes, reminiscent of the nightgowns worn by the prostitutes. The exaggeration and emphasis of the form aims to confuse and blur the gaze of the viewer.

 

Behind the opulent velvets, furs and silks of the main rooms, the photographers exposed the torture rooms, mirrored mazes and fetish themes. These lavish textures are employed through out the collection, whilst harsh hard wear creates detail and an urban edge. Using eyelets, chains and PVC, a street style, fresh look is created, whilst elements of luxurious fabrics create a high end and desirable collaboration, in keeping with the trend of dark opulence.

 

Using contemporary design detailing and unique features, the collection offers a touch of femininity to the urban scene. Hand manipulated voluminous wadding takes the shape of the distorted bodies, whilst prints are designed to haze what each person may depict. With modern day relevance to current protests challenging the sexualisation and discrimination of women, there is an underlying tone of unity and empowerment, suggesting that modesty can be reconsidered. Through different hues, the colour white is used extensively, to signify the innocence and purity of those who may have been assumed or judged.